The Heads of Knysna

Hello friends.

I know I promised I wouldn't post on the blog during my travels, but I came across a computer all by itself in the middle of the great Karoo and thought I would type a note just to say that all is well.

Actually, I'm back in Stellenbosch at the moment. Peter and I have been journeying via hired car across the Western Cape, staying in small backpackers hostels in towns such as Swellendam and Buffalo Bay, places removed enough from big city lights to see a staggering array of new stars -- new to my eyes at least. A few nights ago at the Goukamma Nature Reserve, someone pointed out the Southern Cross just above the sand dunes. I was amazed to see this site at last, in part because I have a series of mosquito bites on my left leg in the exact same alignment.

I don't know where to begin with describing my adventures to date, so I'll just give you a few vital stats until I have the wherewithal to post a more detailed travelogue. I am staying at Hillbillies Haven, a house/student commune several blocks from the market square in Stellenbosch. I've been waking up uncharacteristically early, due to the mild weather and the presence of a strange bird who likes to croon outside my window. And the sun rises super early in the morning, so by the time it's 7:30 I feel like I've stayed in bed for hours longer than I'm supposed to.

The town of Stellenbosch is a bustling little student capital, with tree-lined streets, arcades and attractive cafes that remind me a bit of Bonn. It's apparently one of the whiter cities on the continent, but certainly the most diverse place I've ever stayed. I got up early on Saturday to visit the market and was dazzled by the variety of people, especially the different kinds of clothes people wear. Apparently some people mistook my generic H&M rugby jersey for one of the home teams, because I got a pat on the back and thumbs up from a couple folks.

The rest of my time in this region has been spent mostly around Cape Town. The first day we climbed two separate peaks, taking the Skeleton's Gorge trail to the top of cable mountain, and climbing up the Lion's Head at sunset to watch the full moon rise over the city with a few dozen people who had gathered for the occasion. I've been truly enjoying all the hikes and scenery, though I'm certainly not the track star of yesteryear. In fact, I feel a lot more like the heavyset girl on the cross country team who runs a 4K in just under an hour, the one you like to cheer on but privately feel kind of embarassed for. So it's been rough at times, but over the last few days I've grown more adjusted to the African climate, and today I was catching frisbees like I was 22 all over again.

The other challenge has been driving. I've actually gotten the hang of driving on the left side of the road, though it takes a little more alertness than my average zone-out trip along I-70. It's actually much easier to get used to the whole thing as a driver than as a pedestrian. Observing my fellow motorists can also be alarming. When I look at the cars around me, I'm startled to see the driver's seat occupied by a small child, someone who isn't paying any attention to the road, or worse -- noone at all. I've begun to panic a few times before I remember that it isn't actually the driver's side, and everything is at it should be.

Before I ramble any further about my own impressions, I'd best inform you as to the status of my brother Peter, whom many of you have asked about. Truth be told, I hardly recognize my brother any more. He's been studying the Xhosa language, a native dialect which makes use of three separate clicking noises. Even when I manage to persuade him to speak in English, he insists on interspersing his speech with clicks, and the e-mails he's been sending family members consist largely of the word "click" in parentheses, over and over. More alarmingly, the boy has sworn off McDonald's for the entire semester. Those of you who have sweated through many a Shrek Party in the wee hours at the former 4832 Adams with a Mickey D's feast at stake can be sure this is not the Pedro we used to know.

Actually, Peter is doing just fine, having finished up his studies and his volunteering at the Kayamandi township just outside of town. He's been a great guide and I've learned quite a bit about South Africa from Peter and his friends.

A few more lines before I head out to remedy my sunburn with a blend of chilled South African white wines:

I've greatly enjoyed my stay in this country, though of course I'm just getting only a tiny taste of Africa, touching the tip of the continent figuratively as well as literally. Still, it's been an exciting first week. I've been through a great variety of scenery in a short time, including a few roads no Nissan was ever meant to tread. I've been lucky enough to see a bunch of different animals and sample a dozen different wines, and most importantly, I visited a place called Monkeyland. Look for photos of that experience at a later date.

The next few days I'll be mostly in Cape Town, with a stopover on the beach if the weather's right. Looks like I've got a few postcards to write, so thanks to everyone who has sent their address. I've been thinking a lot of my friends in the States, Europe and elsewhere, and talking to people around the campfire at various Backpackers Lodges has reminded me how much of the world there is still to see.

More about babboons, ghost ships, race wars, hubbly-bubblies, and other assorted topics when I get back to native soil.

until soon,

LDHW